Venice is one of the only urban places where you can let your children walk freely, without being scared of cars. The only danger might be the crowds, and the water, but as a well informed Venetian friend remarked, there is no history of children falling in the canals!

If you prepare well, you can avoid the hordes of tourists. How? 1/ Stay away from hotels too close to Piazza San Marco 2/ Travel in August (it’s a bit hot but less frequented) or in September/October 3/ Do your visits early in the morning (7am on Piazza San Marco is great), 10am at the Biennale.

There is an incredible amount of things to see in Venice, and the Biennale is a nice way to discover places that are a bit off the beaten paths. I am preparing a detailed article for Naif Magazine, about the art on display that children will particularly enjoy, so don’t miss the next issue of the magazine.

Here are some suggestions for a 3 days visit :

DAY 1 – The Arsenale with a group show curated by 55th Biennale’s director Massimilano Gioni and spaces curated by countries. Our favourites this year were Chile, Kossovo, Argentina, United Arab Countries, Iceland and Bahamas.

DAY 2 – The Giardini. The gardens contain 30 permanent pavilions, each one allocated to a particular nation. Several of the pavilions were designed by leading architects of the 20th century, including Carlo Scarpa and Alvar Aalto. With children, make sure you visit Italy (the largest pavilion), Russia (very Playful), Poland, Venezuela, Austria, Spain, Germany (in the French Pavilion this year).

DAY 3 – The off Pavilions and events. They are spread in town, on the main island as well as on La Giudecca and San Giorgio (the two islands in front of San Marco). Not to be missed : Ai Weiwei in the Sant’Antonin church (which is wonderful itself), featuring six large iron boxes, into which visitors can peek to see sculptures recreating scenes from the artist’s detention. The Portuguese boat located in front of the Giardini with a giant installation by Joana Vasconcelos. The Cuban Pavilion in San Marco, hosted in the Archeological Museum, that offers a mix of contemporary artists and ancient art in a wonderful palace (the ceiling in the large room are stunning).

Sleeping in Venice

In the Castello area (ideal to visit the Biennale) : Palazzo Contarini (fantastic place), La Residenza Hotel (only kids +12y accepted), Locanda Novecento (apartments), Locanda Cavaleri.

In Dorsoduro : Hotel DD724 (chic, good breakfast, very convenient location), Don Orione (ancient couvent, quiet, very simple but clean and affordable), Ca Maria Adele ($$$), Pensione Accademia (affordable).

In San Marco : Palazzina Grassi (Philippe Starck), Hotel Bauer ($$$$, amazing terrace), Hotel Monaco & Gran Canal ($$$, very nice renovation), Hotel Ala (Affordable, no charm but somehow practical).

Eating in Venice

Aciugheta (Castello) – NEW, Campo Filippo e Giacomo (Castello). Pizza, fish, delicious homemade desserts, nice terrace.

La Cantina, Campo San Felice

Naranziaria, Campo dell’Erbaria

La Corte Sconta, Calle del Pestrin, Castello (excellent fish, including soft shell crab in season).

Osteria Bancogiro (near the market – don’t miss the “bacala mantegata” and the “fegato alla venetian”, two typical Venetian dishes). Nice terrace in front of Canal Grande.

Il Paradiso Perduto, A very lively, popular abd delicious restaurant in the old jewish ghetto. Cannaregio 2540, Fondamenta della Misericordia.

Alle Testiere, Traditional Venetian cooking. Castello 5801, Calle del Mondo Novo (Rialto).

Cantinone Gia Schiavi, Tipical, local, simple food at an affordable price. Dordoduro 992, Ponte San Trovaso (Academia)

Shopping in Venice

For a very long time, shopping in Venice was very poor with only 3 options : the tourist souvenirs shops, the chains (Calzedonia, Sergio Tacchini, Benetton) and the luxury boutiques (Vuitton, Prada, Bottega Veneta…). There is finally a bit more choice, with great store at Palazzo Grassi and La Dogana (Pinault’s Museums) which have nice children’s books and objects, and a few nice boutiques (adult’s):

- Antica Farmacia Santa Maria Novella (still nice to visit, even if the brand now belongs to a big group, not sure if Eatee Lauder or L’Oreal)

- Caigo Da Mar : A selection of objects and pefumes (Fornasetti, Cire Trudon) beautifully displayed

- The Store : A beautiful mix of women’s clothing and accessories (linen and silk dresses, scarves, silver morrocan leather sandals, etc).

Related Post : www.pirouetteblog.com/travel/exploring-northern-italy/

Salone del Mobile, World Leading Furniture Fair

Salone de Mobile doesn’t mean just a classical trade show in a convention center. It is a combination of that + “Fuori Salone“, with events disseminated all over the city. The  exhibit centre itself is in Rho, outside Milan, and although it is of human size (think a large ICFF, a small M&O), Salone del Mobile is huge, and 5 days are probably not enough to see it all! Most of the non-professional visitors visit the Fuori Salone only : free, open to everyone, very lively it is heaven for social design lovers.

There are 3 main areas with a high concentration of design : Tortona/Savona, which used to be cutting edge, now hosting a majority of  large brands and showrooms, Lambrate : rather new with lots of students projects, but already mutating the way Tortona/Saona did. Both Tortona/Savona and Lambrate have an industrial feel, lots of warehouses and very large spaces. Brera, in the heart of the historic center, has smaller spaces and show rooms, yet a good mix of styles, projects/brands.

The Chinese neighborhood near via Paolo Sarpi is apparently developing nicely, off the beaten path.

Spazio Rossana Orlandi is also an absolute must see. Rossana is a genius in spotting new artists, new talents and new trends, and in displaying them. The garden is lovely with delicious, un-pretencious and affordable food.

Although the event is focused on furniture and decor, fashion brands are (increasingly) present, via special events (The Little Black Jacket – Chanel, photographed by Karl Lagerfeld), sponsoring, exhibition of their furniture lines (Marni, Armani, Fendi, ect), sometimes of their clothes lines (Cos).

This year KidroomZOOM took place in a wonderful nursery school called Chlorofilla, and this is also something new in Milan : finally  a few interesting infrastructures for children. Paola Noe did a great job, gathering all the best of design for kids in one place where parents and children were invited to play and participate in workshops.

What will I keep in mind from this year’s edition of Salone del Mobile? The video/sound installation by Christophe Pillet at La Statale, Hermes at Instituto di Filologia, Rossana Orlandi‘s display at Museo GaBagatti Valsecchi, The movie on Ray and Charles Eames by Head Design School Geneva (with live violin  and cello performance), Ingo Maurer at Krizia Show Room. I missed Nonostantemarras at Antonio Marras’showroom/gallery as well as the Wallpaper event  and tons of other good things, but my head is full enough with two days of walking and watching.

New Buildings

Milan has changed a lot since I was living there 12 years ago. The air is much cleaner, cranes are decorating the sky like they never did since decades and new projects are flourishing.

Where to eat in Milan?

Where to sleep in Milan?

Goat Milk designer Tania Vargas says that Ippudo is amazing. “Best ramen outside of Japan and also super kid friendly they have a special ramen bowl just for kids). The pork buns are the best and not to be missed”.  She also loves Patisserie Claude, that has been around for at least 25 years but that is a secret unless you are a local. “The place doesn’t look like anything special from the outside or inside for that matter. But they have the best croissants and pastries around”. 

Rhodes is located northeast of Crete and southwest of the Anatolian coast in Turkey. It is actually so close to Turkey that you can see it from the airport on a clear day. The little village of Lindos is 40 km south of Rhodes and it’s where the bride, a true Londoner, spent all her summers since she was little. A precious guide for the trip.

The island is small and therefore stress free; all is easy, friendly with good value for money. We just had a fantastic time and promised ourselves we would come back.

Where to sleep in Lindos

The chic hotel in town is Melenos Lindos, with beautiful views on the village and the sea and great outdoor intimate spaces. Lindos Blu, a bit outside of town is another option but this is only if you leave the kids behind as they are not accepted. Sister hotel Lindos Mare can be fun for kids with its great swimming pool and attractions (swings, ping pong table, etc), but the food is average and the supermarket music, cheesy evening pursuits are a bit incongruous.

B&B and flat/house rentals : lindos-filoxenia.com - xenoneslindos.gr - garifallostudios.gr

The most charming villa for rent we’ve visited is villa Angela holidaylettings.co.uk, in the heart of the village. But also check out these properties in a similar style ownersdirect.co.uk - homelidays.co.uk.

Where to eat in Lindos

Mavrikos

The Restaurant at St Paul’s Beach serves very good traditional dishes (humous, tadziki, Greek salad) as well as fried calamari.

Gelo Blu for the best ice cream in town.

Broccolino, Pallas Beach. Very good Italian food, family friendly.

What to see and do in Lindos

- St Paul’s beach is surrounded by rocks. You can spend hours in the water, swimming, snorkeling, diving from the rocky shore.

- The Lindos Citadel (Acropolis) & The Ancient Theatre, is situated on too of a 116 m high rocky hill, making of it a unique terrace over the Aegean sea.

- The Church of Virgin Mary (15th Century), known for its exquisite hagiographies, dating from 1779 and created by Gregorios.

- The Papakonstantis Museum, a traditional Kapetaneïko house, built in the traditional way of Lindos and open to the public.

And a little further : The Tharri’s Byzantine Monastery,  at 4 km  from Laerma village.

Useful info&links

We were lucky to spend some time with locals who gave us good tips to enjoy our visit to this very unique part of the UK.  Thanks to Ann, Rick, Jonathan and Sophie for their warm welcome and for their tips.

How to get to Margate/Broadstairs

From London : Trains from Victoria or St Pancras are only 1.30 minutes (about £18 each way)

From France : Eurostar train to London, change at Ashford international (add an 1 hour to reach Margate)

Local taxis : 0843 333 333 – 0843 601 601 – 0843 291 291 (A local taxi from Margate to Broadstairs costs approximately 8 pounds)

What to see in Margate/Broadstairs

Shell Grotto : A cavern discovered in 1835 and layered with some  4.6 million tiny shells. It is really worth a visit!

Turner Contemporary Gallery : For great contemporary Art Exhibits. On show in September : Tracey Emin. From October : Alex Katz

The Shell Lady : Statue by Ann Carrington on the Margate Harbour Arm

Where to stay in Margate/Broadstairs

Reading Rooms, Margate – Chic boutique hotel in the old town

Walpole Bay Hotel, Margate – Eccentric place with a museum. The place is old, with Victorian charm and clutter that makes you feel you are in an Agatha Christies novel…Fun with kids.

Belvidere Place, B&B, Broadstairs – Charming B&B

Where to eat in Margate/Broadstairs

Turner Contemporary Cafe, Rendez-vous, Margate

Eddie Gilberts,  32 Kings Street, Ramsgate – The restaurant is located above a fish monger; the ideal place for fresh and delicious seafood. You will need to book.

Osteria Posillipo, 14 Albion Street Broadstairs

Festival Cafe  For afternoon tea, 15 Oscar Road, Broadstairs

Morellis, famous 50′s ice cream parlour, 14 Victoria parade, Broadstairs

Usefull links

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2010/apr/09/margate-top-10-turner-gallery

http://isleone.co.uk/places

http://www.thanet.gov.uk/about_thanet.aspx

http://www.dayoutwiththekids.co.uk/things-to-do/Thanet

Here’s a list of places to keep in mind for your family trip!

Where to stay in Arles

Arles is a great city; small and very authentic, it hosts every year “Les Rencontres Photographiques de Arles”, a photo festival  that has been on for decades. Arles is the darling of French Fashion people such as Christian Lacroix and Ines De La Fressange.

Hotel Le Cloitre – 16, Rue du Cloître, 13200 Arles. This Hotel has no website yet. It’s just been redecorated by India Madhavi. We stayed there and loved the décor, and the service was absolutely great. BELOVED!

Hotel Le Nord Pinus – www.nord-pinus.com – Place du Forum. A must in Arles. We stayed at sister Hotel in Tangier which was a delight. Full of charm and history.

Hotel Amphitheatre - www.hotelamphitheatre.fr - 5 Rue Diderot  13200 Arles

Hotel Particulier - www.hotel-particulier.com - 4 Rue de la Monnaie (with a swimming pool)

La Maison d’Arles (B&B) – www.lamaisondarles.fr

La Pousada (B&B) – www.lapousada.net

Arles Suites (B&B) – www.arlessuitehome.fr

Mas St Florent - www.le-mas-saint-florent.com

Mas de la Chapelle www.masdelachapelle.fr

Le Mas de Peint – www.masdepeint.com - Le Sambuc. In the heart of the parc naturel de Camargue, great for the horse riding with Sandy, in the 550 hectars property of the hotel owner.

Where to eat in Arles

La Chassagnette www.chassagnette.fr Organic Food by chef Armand Arnal, delicious – same owner as Hotel du Cloitre and L’Ouvre Boite. Go there for the food, for the garden, for the buzz. It will stay with you. BELOVED!

Comptoir du Sud 2 rue Jean Jaures – 2, rue Jean-Jaurès. Delicious and creative sandwiches with all kind of breads and yumme ingredients (Try the goat cheese, pear, figues confites, pine nuts…).

L’ouvre boite. To eat tapas in a charming square, under a big fat tree. A dangerous place where you can forget time and drink all night (it’s better to leave the kids in the room of the Hotel du Cloitre next door!). BELOVED!

Restaurant du Nord Pinus (by the former chef at L’Autruche)

Where to stay in Avignon

Hotel Cloitre st Louis. Great with kids : well located with a parking and a swimming pool. Rare in Avignon! The courtyard is beautiful, the hotel rooms in the modern part are not of interest visually, so don’t go there expecting old stones and charm. www.cloitre-saint-louis.com

La Mirande. One of the best hotels in South of France. If you can’t stay there, at least go for the Sunday brunch. So chic… www.la-mirande.fr. BELOVED!

Where to eat in Avignon

83 Vernet, 83 rue Vernet – A new restaurant in a beautiful courtyard. The inside decor is a bit 90′s (so is the music) but it is definitely the place to be in Avignon, with a buzz and good vibes. The food is good and creative.

Where to stay in Marseille

The famous Paris Mama Shelter just opened a sister Hotel in Marseille. A rock’n'roll attitude compatible with family life. www.mamashelter.com/en/marseille. We didn’t stay there but many of our friends did and they were all happy with their experience.

Where to eat in Marseille

Mama Shelter – Yes! The food is good, creative, and it’s a fun place to be for lunch or dinner…

Grain de sel – 39 Rue de la Paix

Where to sleep in St Remy de provence

Le mas de l’Amarine – www.mas-amarine.com. A small hotel with a swimming pool, run by a couple passionate about food. Modernist decor (not everything to my taste), but a very nice ambiance. Good selection of books and magazines in the pleasant living area. Like being at home…

Hotel Image – www.hotel-image.fr

Le Chateau des Alpilles - www.chateaudesalpilles.com

Where to eat in St Remy de Provence

La Cantina - 18 Boulevard St Hugo

L’Estagnol - 16 bd Victor Hugo

 And a bit further…

I loved this place near Aix-en-Provence. Very good value for money, authentic “Bastide”, great views, delicious breakfasts and the visit of the last home of Picasso near by.

La Bastide de Richaume - www.bastidedericheaume.com. (see my full post here). BELOVED!

We stayed at Maso Di Villa, a bed and breakfast owned and managed by a family of wine makers. It is rare to find places of such peace and beauty. We had incredible breakfasts in the garden under a fig tree that was providing both shade and part of our morning food. Upon request, the owner was preparing was she was calling “a little snack” but that  was actually copious and exquisite : assortment of cheese, ham and tomato  from the garden, served with the organic house wine, “Nasi Rossi”. It was so good that we ordered two cases that they shipped to London.

Maso di Villa is surrounded by quite a few gastronomical places; “It’s foodie heaven around here and we are so lucky to have such good local produce” says Roberta one of the owners. Recently opened, Osteria Borgoluce is one of them, just a 10 minutes walk away from the hotel.

One could be tempted to stay indefinitely at the beautiful swimming pool, but there is a lot to see in the hotel surroundings, including visits to Villages like Asolo (don’t miss the restaurant Due Mori), Bassano del Grappa, Conegliano and visits to Palladio Villas. Finally Treviso and Venice are not far, visitable on a day trip.

Pirouette tips : where to sleep in Venice

Palazzina Grassi
Hotel DD724
Locanda Novecento
Ca Maria Adele
Pensione Accademia
La Residenza Hotel (only kids +12y accepted)

Where to eat in Venice

La Cantina, Campo San Felice
Osteria San Marco, Frezzeria 1610 041 528 5242
Naranziaria, Campo dell’erbaria 130 041 724 1035
I figli delle stelle, 70/71 Giudecca
Cantina Do mori  Calle dei Mori 429
La Corte Sconta, Calle del Pestrin, Castello 041 5227024
Il paradiso perduto
Osteria Bancogiro
Osteria da Rioba
Trattoria dalla Maria in Carnareggio
La Furatola

Must See in Venice (Off the Beaten Paths)

Palazzo Grassi (Art), Palazzo Fortuny (Art), Punta Alla Dogana (Art – building by Tadao Ando), Fondazione Querini Stampaglia (Art, building by Carlo Scarpa), San Francesco della Vigna (Church with paintings by Veronese and Tiepolo).

A list of kids Summer Camps in Italy

www.zainettoviaggi.it
www.arteaparte.info
www.guidecourmayeur.com (rock climbing, from 8 years old)

View more about Pirouette in Switzerland here.

Pirouette tips : where to sleep in London

• HARLINGTON HOTEL (Bloomsburry) variable, from £95 to £145 – great for a whole family
• MONTAGU PLACE (Marylebone Village) – From £120
• ST JOHN’S HOTEL (Leicester Square) – From £200
• THE GRAZING GOAT (Marble Arch) – From £175
• DEAN STREET TOWNHOUSE (Soho)
• 40 WINK (East London)
• THE BOUNDARY (Sir Terence Conran, East London)
• CHARLOTTE STREET HOTEL (North of Soho)
• THE SANDERSON (North of Soho)
• THE ZETTER (Clerckenwell)
• PORTOBELLO HOTEL (Notting Hill)
• Dorset Square Hotel (North of Marylebone)
• Number 16 (South Kensington) – From £120
• Hotel Avo (Dalston, near the Olympic site) – From £78
• Coming soon : Tune Hotel – Paddington – from £38!
• Hester Gray  (great rental apartments)

Pirouette tips : where to Eat in London

Dinings, Japanese fusion. You’ll need a reservation. 22 Harcourt Street. W1
Trishna, Indian 15-17 Blandford Street  London W1
The Providores, 109 Marylebone High Street  London W1
Pizza East.comt, 56 Shoreditch High Street  London E1
The Empress, 130 Lauriston Road, Victoria Park, London E9
Roti Chai, (India street food) 3 Portman Mews South W1
The Old White Bear, 1 Well Road, London NW3 (Hamptead)
Books for Cooks, 4 Blenheim Crescent, Notting Hill, London
The French House, 50 Lamb Conduit Street
Tombo,  Japanese 29 Thurloe Place London SW7 2HQ
The Balcon, (Former Ducasse chef) 8 Pall Mall
Nopi, 21-22 Warwick Street W1
Ali, 27 Clerckenwell Street
Brawn, 49 Columbia Rd
Hakkasan, Hanway Place
The Approach Tavern, 47 Approach Road
Roka, Charlotte Street
Rochelle Canteen, Arnold Circus
St John, 26 St John’s street
Bistrotheque, 23-27 Wadeson Street
Wapping Project, Wapping Mall
Moro,34-36 Exmouth Market  City of London, EC1
Zuma, Japanese contemporary cuisine - 5 Raphael Street, SW7 (Knightsbridge)